We Don't Know What We're Doing, Part II

We have made it over the continental divide!
Today is our rest day in Banff, Alberta, and our first legitimate chance at reflection, not too mention the much needed and therapeutic appreciation of the days, miles, and mountains now behind us.
When we last wrote, we were in Grand Forks, just north of the U.S. border, and about halfway through a topographical profile that was very much uphill, staying with Peter the carpenter. I think I can speak for Eric when I say that having experienced the days and moments since then, I feel a lifetime removed from what my watch tells me was just a few days ago. And now its time to fill you all in!
Buckle up! Or put your helmets on! Whatever is more appropriate.
From Grand Forks we made our turn north toward the Trans-Canada Highway via New Denver and Revelstoke, with a night's rest in each town. Each day had stellar scenery, and each day was almost entirely uphill.
Grand Forks to New Denver:
These rest towns are a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the fact that they are always in a valley offers us respite on the descents at the end of a long day, but on the other, such a setup invariably means a climb out of town in the morning. The road out of Grand Forks was no different. We both had tired legs, and various sore spots all over, so warming up and getting loose and comfortable is very important, however elusive when the road gets steep. We climbed up to Christina Lake on a moderate grade, not enough to hurt us, but enough to confirm that we were indeed tired. The lake was a glacial lake, a deep blue color inset in the high green hills, and quite a sight to behold. It was up in this region that we started to notice another climate shift, from the lower-altitude desert, to the higher evergreen mountains of the Rockies. We rode along the lake for a brief spell before the road turned up in earnest. A 37 km climb, and a comparatively steep one at that, took is higher still, up to the hilltops to continue making our way north. We moved away form the lake, and higher up on moderate, manageable grades, stopping were we could to top off water bottles, or replace the lost calories we had left strewn about on the lower slopes. The sun shown through, unobstructed for the first time, and gave the tan-lines some more definition, though I'm sure my mother would be the first to say that I didnt need that at all. Eric's are coming back nicely as well. An important badge of honor for any bike rider. Higher and higher we went, and up to another glacial lake, Slocan Lake, a long and deep resevoir, until we found ourselves in the closing kilometers. We climbed up along a sheer face on the east side of the lake, providing us with some of the most beautiful views of the trip, and taxing our legs further still, before descending through New Denver's neighboring town of Silverton, and finally into New Denver itself. We drank some chocolate milk and sat down for a moment before we made our way up to our host's home, high on a hill and, fittingly, only accessable by a very steep gravel road. The house was beautiful. Wooden, with a stone fireplace, and tall windows to allow one to look out over Slocan Lake and into the surrounding peaks...Certainly too nice for the likes of two smelly cyclists, and we were incredibly grateful for such an experience. Great people, great food, and great conversations offered us a valuable morale boost, and we set out from New Denver the next morning en route to Revelstoke.
New Denver to Revelstoke:
Again with the climbing! The road took us immediately up and out of town on what was to be a 95 some-odd mile day. We decided to split it into thirds, stopping in Nakusp, the hot spring/ferry accross the lake that was really just the dammed Columbia River, and the final push to Revelstoke itself. We had some food in Nakusp, and the Halcyon hot spring thirty miles or so up the road certainly felt refreshing. We took the highway north to the ferry crossing, scaring a young and extremely furry black bear from its foraging station at the roadside. It couldn't have been more than 25 feet from us, and we couldn't even see it until it bolted! Quite a sight indeed. The ride on the ferry was wind-blown and cold, but the sights were great, and I don't get to take rides of ferries that often, so it was a treat...Even though I was skeptical at first...After all, Eric's father had mentioned that there is no such thing as ferries, but no matter, I'm a believer now. The final 30 miles to Revelstoke were very tough, at first due to the headwind, and finally due the the mental strain of continuing uphill in cold rain for what always seems to be so much longer than it really is. We were relieved again when the road sloped downward into town, and we made our way to a great hostel to get some sleep.
Revelstoke to Golden:
Finally on the Trans-Canada, and finally turning East again! We headed out of Revelstoke and, you guessed it, up a hill. We were treated to a fleeting rainshower before the sun broke through, and a relatively short day at about 90 miles. We were finally pushing into the western slopes of the main ridge of the Rockies, with the brown peaks reaching abruptly above the tree lines, distinctively colored by the wonderful combinations of sandstones, limestones, and shale. The whole area feels so vibrant, young, and alive, and I think that such an atmosphere helped us maintain some composure as we continued to climb higher and higher toward the continental divide. We made our way into the first Rocky Mountain National Park of our journey, Glacier National Park, and over the famous Roger's Pass near the end of the day, and from there it was a fast and rolling ride into Golden. We got into town a little later than we would've liked, again, but still with plenty of sunlight left, and a little energy left over to put towards finding a place to stay. Todd Craig, a mountain guide, and his family put us up for the night. Todd is a jack-of-all-trades in the high hills, and a very nice guy, and Eric and I had a great time talking with him, his wife, and his two extremely energetic boys over breakfast. So much of this trip is dependent upon the goodwill of others, and without the amazing people we are lucky enough to meet, it just wouldn't be possible. So a special thanks to Todd and his family.
Golden to Banff:
Another reasonably short day, this one just shy of 90 miles, had our focus not on the ride at hand, but on the rest that awaited, and for anyone who hasn't done something like this, the cardinal rule is to maintain focus on each moment, or you risk subjecting yourself to one of the most mentally-taxing endeavors you could ever hope to undertake. Minutes stretch to hours, and the day cannot ever go fast enough to fix it. We dragged ourselves up into a canyon out of Golden and right into an exciting encounter with three Big Horn Sheep, none of which had any regard for the schedules of the drivers they were inconveniencing. It was very amusing, and they looked so extremely unimpressed by all of the tourists' cameras. We climbed for about 17 km up and out of the canyon and into Yoho National Park. The park was gorgeous. After some ups and downs through Yoho, we came to Kicking Horse valley, and a town called Field. We stopped for some coffee and food before making our push up Kicking Horse Pass, over the continental divide, into the Mountain West timezone, and into Alberta. Having refueled, we set out, and as tired as I was, I was determined to make my last climb west of the divide a good one, so Eric and I flew up the pass and over the top into Alberta and onto the eastern slopes of the divide. We had crested the high point of our trip, and it was such a relief to be done with the constantly uphill riding. From there it was a downhill ride into Banff National Park, and our checkpoint at Lake Louise. Having visited the town three years ago, we spent a rather long time there, partly for the sentimental value, but also to take care of some logistical stuff during appropriate business hours. We got everything squared away and headed to Banff, 35 miles down the highway, and the base of our adventures here in 2005. We were so happy to be riding on roads that were headed down the slopes! We made great time and arrived at our host's house with just enough energy to shower and head out for some food before bed. After a good night's sleep, we are still here in Banff, enjoying our rest, saying hello to all of you, and looking forward to another stint in a hot spring. It is wonderful to see the town again, and to remind ourselves why we like it so much here.
Tomorrow it begins all over again, and we will do our best to keep you all updated as often as possible. Hope all is well. E-mail us and say hello!

Have a terrific Jason and Eric's Rest Day!

- J